New Jane Iredale Spring Collection and St. Tropez Bronzers!

April 14, 2010, 9:01 am

≫ Next: News update

$

0

0

Hi! We just got in the new Jane Iredale spring Perfectly Nude collection. They now have some great lip stains that do stay on quite nicely without being drying. They also have a new bronzer and eye shadow palette with pretty blush undertones and are very wearable! Finally, we have switched our self-tanners to the St. Tropez line. They are consistently written up as being one of the best self-tanners: natural looking, easy to apply and odourless. I can already vouch for the scent- there is none of the usual unpleasant 'biscuit-y' scent at all. I'm just waiting for my mousse to come in and then I will let you know how it goes on. It also comes in an aerosol and lotion version. There are formulas specifically for your face and there is an 'intensifier' that helps extend the colour over time. Lots to play with!

All the Beauty Best,

Sara Dudley

---

News update

May 21, 2010, 11:12 am

≫ Next: Go with your own glow

≪ Previous: New Jane Iredale Spring Collection and St. Tropez Bronzers!

$

0

0

I must inform you that Sara Dudley has returned to school to complete her MBA, therefore sadly she will be absent from the blogs for one year. Having said that, it's with a great pleasure that I will continue her CyberDERM blogs. Some of you might already know me as CyberDERM's Esthetician and Makeup Artist, my name is Angela Gins and I am excited to give all of you my beauty secrets and what's in the new. When it comes to cosmetics and beauty, I am a billboard of information, with 15+ years experience in the industry, I look forward to share my knowledge with all of you. To get started, I would like to announce that we will be posting new how-to webinars. If you have visited our webinars already, you may have noticed it wasn't exactly Hollywood productions! But Sara and I did have a good laugh trying to be A-listers. we are excited to finally reproduce our clips but this time with the help of our inhouse photographer who has the expertise to make anything happen (metaphorically). We will also be using a professional model, who happens to be the daughter of one of our beloved nurses Cathy Holbein here at Laserderm, we will be keeping you posted when it is officially available to view.

All the beauty best,
Angela

Go with your own glow

June 18, 2010, 12:18 pm

≫ Next: Certain characteristics fit the mold of the "ideal" signs of beauty and youth.

≪ Previous: News update

$

0

0

To continue Sara's previous blog posted April 14th, she spoke highly of our new addition to CyberDERM; St-Tropez self tanners provide a new era and evolution in tanning. Achieving an effortless, flawless natural, but safe tan. http://www.st-tropez.com/
I can speak from personal experience , having tried almost every self tanner on the market from low end to high end, I have saved you from embarrassing mishaps. St-Tropez has exceeded my expectations, I especially love the aroma guard, this means no more of that distinctive self tan odour. Being firm advocates of what we preach, we all stay out of the sun and use our zinc oxide sunscreen daily, imagine how excited we all are to actually have color but without the UV damage of the sun or tanning beds. Be aware that the World Health Organization (WHO) reports worldwide over 2 million skin cancers, 132,00 melanomas and 66,000 melanoma-related deaths annually, related to tanning beds. Frequent tanners using high-pressured sunlamps in sun-beds may receive as much as 12 times the annual UVA dose compared to the dose received from outdoor sun exposure. For the complete advisory read this interesting article from the International Skin Cancer Foundation:
http://www.gowithyourownglow.net/images/stories/2010_Journal/IntlAdvisoryCouncilNews.pdf
Choose the safe alternative and go with your own glow, St-Tropez is safe and natural, just remember to use a zinc oxide sunscreen for full spectrum of protection against UV damage at all times when outdoors.

All the beauty best,
Angela

Certain characteristics fit the mold of the "ideal" signs of beauty and youth.

July 13, 2010, 7:23 am

≫ Next: The contributors to pre-mature aging

≪ Previous: Go with your own glow

$

0

0

Let's face it, we all want to fight Mother Nature when it comes to signs of aging. Fortunately there are ways to restore what we have lost, and I am going to let you in on the secrets to revitalize your natural youthful beauty. Beauty and high volume cheek bones go hand in hand along with full lips and wide eyes, but for many women the allure of a sculpted cheek is irresistable. It keeps a defined jaw line, lifts and shapes your face entirely; perhaps this is why high cheek bones are synonymous with traditional idea of glamour. Maybe you weren't born with Audrey Hepburn or Sophia Lauren's coveted facial traits, but I have tips to help you with the illusion of shaping and creating volume where it is lost. Highlighting and contour is one of the most powerful tools available in makeup, but most makeup neophytes will shy away from utilizing its benefits. Highlighting will draw the light to catch the attention to more flattering areas and shaping with contour will cast a shadow to create depth to sculpt the face.

Learn more when you come in to visit CyberDERM.

The newest trend in replacing lost volume and enhancing the youthful contours of the face, is the non-surgical innovative injectable hyaluronic volumiser "VOLUMA" by Juvederm. It's natural feeling and safe. It will breathe new life to anyone's look with immediate improvements that lifts and restores. You will fall in love with the results and it will be a love affaire for a full 18 months!

This sets it apart from all other temporary fillers with the maximum volume and duration, confirming Dr. Laughlin's philosophy of less product with paramount results. Laserderm is one of the select Cosmetic Medical Clinics that carry this exclusive FDA cleared product.

We look forward to seeing you soon.

All the beauty best,

Angela

The contributors to pre-mature aging

August 16, 2010, 7:25 am

≫ Next: Confessions of being beauty crazed!

≪ Previous: Certain characteristics fit the mold of the "ideal" signs of beauty and youth.

$

0

0

1. PHOTOAGING

What is photoaging

Photoaging is premature aging of the skin caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet radiation (uv), primarily from the sun, but also from artificial UV sources. Photoaging is different from chronologic aging, as the damaging effects of UV rays from the sun (or UV lamps), alter the normal structures of the skin.

How much is skin aging due to photoaging versus normal aging

On sun exposed skin, up to 90% of aging is due to the deleterious effects of the sun. The natural aging process is dependent on time and genetics. However, photoaging can be reduced with sun avoidance. A truly broad spectrum sunscreen blocks 90% of the UVA rays that penetrate to the deepest layers of skin. Many high SPF sunscreens do not block enough UVA, and do not adequately prevent photoaging. The best UVA protection comes from zinc oxide, also used in soothing calamine lotion and diaper creams.

Dr. Laughlin, our Medical Consultant and Medical Director of Laserderm, generally categorizes photoaging into the three "D" components: Deterioration, Deflation, and Descent. The best way to avoid photoaging is to have a good sun protection regimen such as CyberDERM AM Hydrating Whip with 15% invisible zinc oxide, providing a full spectrum of UV protection and your daily moisturizer all in one. Its invisible zinc ingredient (zinclear) meets the Australian and European standards for a complete broad spectrum UVB/UVA protection.

If only I knew this vital information 15 years ago! but since sun damage is cumulative, it is never too late to start! Now I am sun\sunscreen smart and think back to centuries ago when woman had radiant porcelain skin, which was the standard beauty mark. The measure of beauty was flawless skin, also considered as a sign of social status. Current fashion embraces porcelain skin once again, where the "tanned look" is out! Since all I ever accomplished from my efforts to desperately achieve any color was an aggregation of freckles left behind, I am in with the out! Unfortunately, these days we also have a competitor to UV rays that also contributes to aging, and that is....

2. ENVIRONMENTAL STRESS AND POLLUTANTS

It's distressing that everyday particles from places such as industrial areas, busy highways, and farms are released into the atmosphere, and carried into the air which we live in and breathe. It is estimated that every day on our planet more than 80,000 tons of particles become airborne, contributing to the pollutants and toxins we breathe. Ontario is the province with the highest levels of pollutants in Canada. Your skin is continuously being exposed to free radical damage, destructive environmental toxins, pollutants, allergens and solar damage, all are significant contributors to the aging process. In skin cells chronological aging accelerates due to the sun and air pollutants that produce free radicals, the accumulation of which become toxic.

The body's largest organ -the skin- pays a price for protecting us from all of the environmental damages. Everything you do now to prevent damage will reduce your signs of aging. My personal favorite among aesthetics in our clinic, is the Physicians choice Detoxifying Mask Treatment. It specializes in removing the accumulation of toxins within the skin. This is one treatment that is painless and you will enjoy.

This month of August, take advantage of CyberDERM's monthly special, and receive 20% off our PCA Oxygenating and Detoxifying Mask Treatment. Speak to Angela for more information.

Confessions of being beauty crazed!

September 23, 2010, 7:37 am

≫ Next: THINK PINK FOR OCTOBER

≪ Previous: The contributors to pre-mature aging

$

0

0

I admit my relationship and love of all things beauty is real and enduring. After 3-4 months of lip balm, sunscreen and a little eyeliner, I am ready for REAL makeup. Fall is a time I crave the trends, captivated by the rich colors that warm your heart before Jack Frost hits the Ottawa streets. Ready to dive into this fall's fashion trends, captivated by the edgy kaleidoscope of shades that every fashion aficionado desires. Taking a hint of the old world and French beauty by combining different colors on the same facial feature to yield a spectacular and dimensional effect. It's about emancipation - freedom, if you like - to be confident with how you look, and this year Jane Iredale mineral makeup offers more then just smokey eyes, they have made a "pure impact" on all eyes http://makeupblog.janeiredale.com/blog/?tag=eyeshadow
You will literally "fall" for their new 2010 Fall collection, now available at CyberDERM.

There are other trends that come hand in hand with makeup. Great makeup starts with beautiful skin. I have personally experienced the benefits of blended peels that remove the damaged caused throughout the summer months. It is all about upkeep and prevention. I find renewing my skin with blended TCA peel revives my skin, smooths my wrinkles and removes any sun damage that may have escaped my diligent efforts to "protect and prevent". The TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) solutions are blends formulated with several brightening ingredients. Including lactic acid, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, azelaic acid and plumping phytohormones to produce dramatic results, without the discomfort and downtime associated with traditional acid peels.

The fact is we all love to look and feel good, making time for ourselves is essential. "shine, Fashion + Beauty" from yahoo reveals in these recent statistics why we love to treat ourselves:

• 55% of women said they shop for beauty products to relieve stress and relax.
• 25% of women said they shop to keep up with beauty trends and products.
• 65% of women feel happy after they have purchased a new beauty product.
• 75% of women feel good about themselves but want to look younger.

Beauty products give us an edge. Just like embracing makeup as a way to feel good, we also see it as a chance to create a professional and personal appearance. I think it's safe to say that I am not the only one with a slight obsession for all things "beauty". So for beauty's sake, indulge yourself, come in and see us!
All the beauty best,

THINK PINK FOR OCTOBER

October 7, 2010, 8:51 am

≫ Next: Healthy glowing skin

≪ Previous: Confessions of being beauty crazed!

$

0

0

Raising awareness for breast cancer

Each year, thousands of Canadians are touched by Breast Cancer. It not only impacts the individuals living with the disease, but their families, friends and loved ones as well. While survival rates have increased with recent breakthroughs, one in nine women still face a diagnosis by the age of 85 and will need our help and support. Together our contributions can make a difference.

The Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation suggests ways to reduce your cancer risk.

• Quit smoking


• Be Sun Smart


• Keep to a healthy weight


• Be more physically active


• Eat a healthy, well balanced diet


• Avoid or limit alcohol intake

We at CyberDERM particularly are adverts of being Sun Smart. Protecting your skin from harmful UV rays with an efficient sunscreen that is a ultra fine zinc oxide base formula 15% or higher, ensures a full 400NM spectrum of protection. Screen your sunscreen, be educated and proficient label readers, CyberDERM Laboratories manufactures an invisible zinc oxide based on EU and Australian standards for a truly broad spectrum activity. It is translucent, with a cashmere matte finish and non-greasy. For more information please visit: http://www.cyberderm.ca/
In addition CyberDERM offers Chemotherapy skin solutions, our Derma-Technology skin care has solutions that are gentle, do not contain synthetic fragrances, colors or other known sensitizers. Using gentle products during treatment can help balance your skin and prevent known side effects. Our highly educated team of physicians and nurse consultants at Laserderm are also available to help you through recommended professional advanced treatments.
We all want to join the celebration of cancer survivors and take part in the fight against breast cancer. Our hearts go out to individuals and families touched by cancer. By donating and working together we can deter, defeat and defy cancer!
Cyberderm is proud to support in the fight against breast cancer, we are raising donations to Living Beyond Cancer Foundation in support of all women who have risen above breast cancer and those who we love.
http://ottawa.ctv.ca/servlet/an/local/CTVNews/20100917/OTT_armyrun_100917/20100917/No%20Ordinary%20Family
http://www.lbbc.org/

Healthy glowing skin

January 18, 2011, 11:05 am

≫ Next: A New Introduction and a New Way to Body Contour

≪ Previous: THINK PINK FOR OCTOBER

$

0

0

2011 WISH LIST:

Designer purse...diamond earrings...radiant complexion!
With 2010 behind us, we reflect upon events and happenings of the past year and we ask ourselves "what can we do better this year"?

If you have been wishing for a healthy glowing skin, then what better time than now. Anyone can attain the skin they always wanted with the correct prescribed regime. If the winter environmental stresses are getting to your skin, then why not do something about it, by taking a few minutes out of your busy lifestyle to really care for yourself.

The new year brings new things, including fashion and beauty trends that keep you looking and feeling noval and this year's forecast calls for glittery nails, tones of golden OMG-orange glamorous lips, extra long lashes and healthy glowing complexions. This is the time to start fresh and feel confident about healthy, beautiful skin. Dull, sallow complexions, dehydrated skin and hyperpigmentation are all common complaints. Protocols designed to flood the skin with hydration, antioxidants and vitamins are recommended for all skin types and conditions to leave the skin naturally healthy and glowing. Our line of cosmeceutical skin care is designed to do just that!

A perfect remedy for the winter blues and my personal favourite, is the PM Anti-Age rejuvenation moisturizer. What you might not know about our night treatment, is that it is fully loaded with anti-oxidants. It rejuvenates and improves the cellular viability and physiological process that ages us. The finest formulation of exotic ingredients from around the world, such as; renovage, EUK 123, gorgonian sea whip and tumeric.

Tumeric has actually been a well known skin care power house and offers many benefits to the skin. Because it is natural, it is used safely in many cosmetics and skin care remedies. The use of tumeric improves overall skin health and helps to protect the skin against disease and other skin conditions. It is a natural healer for skin conditions such as eczema, acne, dry skin and psoriasis. The use of tumeric in cosmetics and skin care products helps to naturally brighten the skin, slow the appearance of aging and restore youth, keeping the skin radiant from deep within. Continued use decreases the formation of deep creases and wrinkles.

Always complimentating your night rejuvenation with the AM Hydrating whip for prevention and protection during the day is your power system and my recipe for healthy glowing skin, helping me beat the winter blues!

---

A New Introduction and a New Way to Body Contour

July 15, 2011, 6:40 am

≫ Next: A Peel from Two Perspectives

≪ Previous: Healthy glowing skin

$

0

0

Hello Everyone!

I am Karina Tenekjian, CyberDERM’s new aesthetician, make-up artist and beauty counsellor. I worked previously in Los Angeles for the past 10 years as a freelance stylist and makeup artist, and have extensive experience in salon and medical aesthetics. I am very focused on what I do and my wish is to assist you in achieving your expectations and becoming more beautiful!

I am pleased to introduce a new addition to the family of therapies at our sister company, Laserderm. The Venus FREEZE is now available to patients as a non-invasive treatment for skin laxity and body contouring.

Venus Concept, a leading company in the Radio Frequency (RF) field, brings us the FREEZE. It is a simple, comfortable, and reliable new system, based on the (MP)2 technology. This new equipment is a major new advance in the use of RF for facial and body skin rejuvenation. It appears to achieve expected results more quickly than previous systems, without surgery or recovery time. It allows you to maintain normal routines and to carry on with your planned activities. The Venus Freeze provides the fastest treatment, the best temperature uniformity and patient comfort among the non-invasive RF systems in use. I personally experienced these benefits and can confirm that the heating sensation is so pleasant, like a warm massage, that you might even fall asleep. Until now, few systems allow us to offer patients an optimal standard for this type of treatment. It is an all-in-one, simple system that can bring results as early as two treatments.

The Venus FREEZE boosts your body’s own collagen production resulting in tighter and smoother skin. It works as the patented technology combines a grid of bi-polar RF with magnetic pulses that work in synergy to reduce cellulite. This system is also used in combination with other treatments, such as post- liposuction tissue recovering, post-ablative and non-ablative laser remodelling, to name a few.

It has met our expectations and early patients appear satisfied. It is particularly suitable for difficult or less accessible areas such as the neck, chest, underarms or arms. Our staff have all eagerly used the FREEZE for contouring and cellulite reduction and there is keen competition to get available times. For our varied personal concerns results are noticeable, and the definite plus is that it is painless!

In wishing all the best to you and your family this summer, I remain,

Yours truly,

Karina

A Peel from Two Perspectives

October 2, 2011, 10:18 am

≫ Next: The Controversy about Vitamin D and sunscreen

≪ Previous: A New Introduction and a New Way to Body Contour

$

0

0

This month we thought we would talk about peels from two perspectives: from the expert, our aesthetician Karina, on why you should get peels and from someone who has had one and how it went, i.e. me. We hope you enjoy it and write us in with questions and comments!

All the Beauty Best,

Sara

Karina's Perspective

Many people hear the term “chemical peel” and make two false assumptions. Firstly, they think this treatment actually “peels” away the skin. Secondly, they think that “chemical” means something extremely harsh or even toxic. Neither is true. Chemical peels do not peel away anything; they simply dissolve and exfoliate the uppermost layer of the epidermis, revealing a new layer of rejuvenated skin. In fact, you can undergo a chemical peel during your lunch break and return to work that very afternoon without anybody being the wiser - although you may receive comments on how your skin glows and has that “healthy” look. You may hear that anybody can do a chemical peel procedure. As with any procedure involving your skin, a prudent approach is to trust your care to a trained professional. Peels are used to treat a variety of skin conditions—fine lines, age spots and uneven pigmentation, acne and acne scarring. Deciding which peel is right for your very particular skin type and condition should be made only with the help of an experienced and knowledgeable professional who can give you sage advice about all the options available.

TCA PEELS

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels are considered medium-depth peels. They reach slightly deeper into the skin than alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels--and can produce better results, depending on the concentration of the acid. These peels also have the advantage of being suitable for most skin types, including darker-toned skin.

THE TREATMENT

A TCA peel generally takes 15 to 30 minutes. The exact length of treatment will depend on how many "coats" of the acid are applied to your skin. First, your skin will be cleansed and degreased. Then the acid will be applied. You’ll experience a slight stinging sensation during the 2 to 3 minutes the solution remains on your skin. Within a few days, your skin will tighten and darken--and then begin to crack and slough off for the next 4 to 7 days--at which point the tighter, smoother and more youthful-looking layer of skin will emerge.

Your skin’s newly formed outer layer will be temporarily more susceptible to sunburn. You must protect it with an effective broad spectrum sunscreen SPF 30 sunscreen for several weeks. Daily use of a sunscreen on exposed areas is the basis for good skin care. Many of you have most likely heard our take on sunscreens and how zinc oxide ones are the best, if not check out our release on the Perils of Not Screening your Sunscreen in our In The News section of our website.

Enjoy your treatment and write in to tell us about your experience!

Sara's Perspective

The fall in Canada is always a great time of the year. You get to experience that first chill outside and pull out your favourite sweaters. If you are like me, you get a break from the intense heat of the summers in a big city. No matter how diligent you are in your sun care, the wears and tears that summer can bring are hard on your skin. I always manage to accumulate a couple more freckles and I get a slightly greater build-up of dead skin. All of that means that it is time to rev up exfoliating your skin and just perk up your skin cells that can become a bit sluggish.

I frequently get oxygenating masks, especially in the transition between the seasons. They involve layering a series of topical products that include natural enzymes found within the body that are analogous to an oil change for your cells. Sometimes when you need something more involved, chemical peels are actually a fairly gentle way of completely removing the dead cells and exposing the living ones in the epidermis.

Now I have never gotten a facial before so I can't fairly comment on their effectiveness but chemical peels are much more focused on delivering therapeutic results. This time around, Karina elected to use the PCA Sensi Peel on me since it had been a while since my last one. With peels, you layer the treatments over top of each other depending on what degree of actual exfoliation you are looking for and how much your skin can tolerate. I just wanted a gentle sloughing but I have seen some get what I call the 'sheet' effect where sheets of skin come delicately off. The actual peel itself should not really be all the uncomfortable. Typically, whoever is applying the peel will ask the wonderful question, "On a scale of 1-10 , what is your comfort level?" A ten would be an "Oh god, this hurts": I was a five by the end and just tried to fan away the stinging.

That evening I went home pretty normal looking but a little shiny from the post-peel products you are meant to apply. I actually looked pretty glowing for the first day afterwards and it was only on the night of the second day that I started to get that tight sensation and a little flaking. Flaky skin is a pet peeve of mine since it is really impossible to cover. I always suggest getting a peel on a Wednesday so that by Friday night, you are home and you can hide out for the weekend. If you have to go out, wear a ball cap and big sunglasses and then you look like a movie star in hiding. It also pays to apply the post-creams when you feel tight. Finally, avoid temptation and do not pull at your skin. I have a skin type III (i.e. I tend to tan quite easily and burn rarely) so I produce excess pigment with any kind of trauma which could happen if you rip the skin and create a scab. If you would like, you can use the pads of your fingertips in the shower to gently remove the dead skin.

I'm pretty happy with the results. My residual freckles have faded. My skin is noticeably smoother. I also noticed that when I apply my make-up the finish is even nicer than normal. Plus I got a 'you look nice' from my boyfriend, which is always bonus.

The Controversy about Vitamin D and sunscreen

October 6, 2011, 12:58 pm

≫ Next: What's Your Skin Type?

≪ Previous: A Peel from Two Perspectives

$

0

0

The debate continues over which is more important - wearing sunscreen and limiting sun exposure tprevent skin cancer or getting the beneficial effects of vitamin D from even time-limited sun exposure or tanning.First consider why vitamin D is so important:

• It's primary purpose is to assist parathormone and other metabolic agents in regulating and maintaining normal levels of calcium and phosphorus in the body.
• Calcium requires vitamin D for efficient transport from the digestive tract into the bloodstream.
• Recent research suggests that vitamin D is important in the prevention of osteoporosis, high blood pressure, several forms of cancer, and some immune-system diseases. It has now replaced Vitamin C and E as being the "wonder" vitamin, if there is one.

There are two forms of vitamin D that are important in humans:

• Vitamin D2 : Ergocalciferol contained in plants
• Vitamin D3 : Cholecalciferol, manufactured in the skin from exposure to UV radiation and present in certain foods.

The controversy:
Recent studies find many individuals in Canada to be deficient in vitamin D. They wear sunscreen for protection in the summer and spend the long winter months wrapped from head to toe in warm clothing. This limits the production of vitamin D from the lower UV exposure. Some recommend to spend a limited time of 10 minutes in the sun without a sunscreen from time to time. At Cyberderm and Laserderm we advocate stringent sunscreen protection all year round. The risk of UV exposure far outweigh any benefits from maintaining vitamin D production by the skin:

• Most cases of skin cancer are potentially preventable, yet across the USA non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC) has tripled from 1 million cases in 1987 to 3.5 million in 2009.
• The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention state that melanoma rates have been increasing by 3.1% per year since 1986, despite the use of sunscreens, since most sunscreens may not protect against the longer UVA rays.
• 3% of Canadians will develop some form of skin cancer this year.
• In North America over $6 billion is pent removing actinic and cancerous lesions.
• UV radiation from sun exposure causes skin cancer, and photoaging and pre-mature aging.

How much vitamin D do you really need?

We prefer that you get your Vitamin D from diet and supplements. The RDA may not be high enough for most Canadians. Most experts agree that children and adults who stay out of the sun require 1000-2000 IU daily, but you can safely take 2-4 thousand IU per day, particularly in the winter months.


What you may not know about vitamin D:

• Vitamin D in the body has to be processed by the liver and the kidneys into a usable form. Whether the source is dietary or from sun exposure, once vitamin D is processed, the metabolic effect is the same. That is why dietary vitamin D works. Your body does not know whether the vitamin D being used came from sun exposure and the skin or from your diet.
• You can get vitamin D from a variety of sources. Foods such as salmon, sardines, shiitake mushrooms, and egg yolks naturally contain vitamin D. Some foods like milk, orange juice, yogurts, and cheeses are fortified to increase their vitamin D and calcium content. Finally, there are prescription and over-the-counter vitamin D supplements that come in capsules and liquids.

Get your Vitamin D from diet and select your sunscreen wisely:

As mentioned in previous blogs, using a truly broad spectrum for sunscreen is essential. Avoid the high SPF trap where most believe that the higher - the better. For adequate sunburn protection measured by the SPF number, most need a minimum of SPF 25-30. Ensure you get truly broad-spectrum protection from even long wave UVA, most high SPF sunscreens will not protect you adequately. Current research and the findings of the Environmental Working Group (EWG) confirm that zinc and titanium-based formulations are among the safest, most effective sunscreens on the market. Zinc gives complete UVA and UVB, while titanium affords complete UVB and partial UVA protection. Clear zinc products, such as CyberDERM's AM Hydrating Whip, provides the complete protection in an esthetic invisible film.

If you enjoy having a "sun kissed tan", then opt for the alternative of self-tanning lotion. We recommend St-Tropez self-tanning products - http://www.sttropez.com/. It gives you the tan you want, first time-the safe way, looking like you just came back from the Islands, the future looks golden!
Their product is available at CyberDERM, along with our premium products of cosmeceuticals.

What's Your Skin Type?

November 1, 2011, 10:22 am

≫ Next: The Best of the 'Others' 2011

≪ Previous: The Controversy about Vitamin D and sunscreen

$

0

0

In my experience, people tend to repeat to themselves their skin type like it is their own personal mantra, “I have dry skin. I have dry skin. I have dry skin.” It may be a conclusion that they came to as a teenager and one that they subsequently have never challenged.  The fact remains that skin is as alive as you are.  It’s dynamic and will age, and can even change year to year.  

There are a host of reasons for these changes.  Your skin reflects different life-stages from puberty, to pregnancy to menopause.  We see a lot of women who are confounded by their adult acne when they managed to be relatively clear as teenagers (it’s most likely red acne with the telltale sign being breakouts around the chin).  You also have to consider lifestyle changes. (starting to smoke, drinking alcohol, moving to a new city with a different climate).  Chronic and acute stress is hard on your immune system and can cause your acne, psoriasis, eczema and rosacea to flare. Medications can also dramatically alter your skin for years after you have taken them.  The most obvious example is Accutane, which temporarily shuts down your oil glands in the skin and acne is in remission for 3-5 years. Others include- the birth control pill Depo Provera and implants can cause cystic acne and medication used for treating infertility can cause excessively dry flaking skin.  The important point to note is that it is always helpful to re-assess your skin periodically and tailor your skincare routine accordingly.

The most basic litmus test for getting a sense of your skin type is the oil-check:

•  If even after you have washed your face you are oily by noon, you have oily skin.

•  If you notice in most pictures you are shiny right between your eyebrows, you most likely have an oily t-zone and combination skin.

•  If you feel dry all day, you could either be dehydrated, rough or just have dry skin.  The end result of all of these conditions is the same, i.e. dry feeling skin but the causes are different.  Dehydrated skin is due to some external factor like over-stripping the skin or just not drinking enough water.  Generally dry skin is a hereditary condition and probably something you have noticed for a long time.  Rough skin is very often confused with both of the other conditions and also commonly gets mistaken with having sensitive skin.  Rough skin is just a build-up of dead cells and with gentle exfoliation will reveal softer, more hydrated skin.  Sensitive/dry skin normally feels more sore to the touch and can be painfully cracked and broken.

With all skin types, there are certain universal Do’s and Don’ts.  A skincare professional can help create a more tailored routine but if they suggest any of the following Don’ts, I would consider them red flags:

•  Don’t over-strip with abrasive scrubs.  Physical exfoliation like revolving brushes blindly remove living and dead cells and can be overkill.  I can always sense that someone has been indoctrinated into the psyche of overkill when I suggest using a mild cleanser like Cetaphil and they get this panicked look over whether their skin will truly be clean enough.  Great skin is not about removing every trace of oil and dirt in your pores.  Some trace amounts of oil in your skin are necessary. Cleansing oils are becoming more en vogue every day and can be a nice option.  Also, regular use of alpha-hydroxy acids, specifically glycolic acid, can be a gentle way of removing build-up for skin cells that are ready to be removed.  Only people with truly sensitive/cracked skin should avoid them.

•  Do not tan to try and cover blemishes or acne scars.  It is true that the sun can dry the skin and alleviate acne but it is a short term gain for long term trouble.  Aside from the many medical issues like cancer, tanning also creates a rather muddy looking complexion.  Beautiful skin reflects light and healthy, hydrated skin cells will help with that.

•  Do not think that thicker moisturizers means more hydration  I see a lot of older women especially applying the Nivea or Ponds type cold creams to their faces in the belief that is the only way to hydrate severely dry skin.  Hydration comes from penetrating through to the epidermis or protecting the skin to preserve your own natural moisture content.  Different ingredients will accomplish different things. The thickness of creams has to do with the emulsifiers in the cream itself and it does not equal hydration.  They can also cause closed comedones or milia.

I’ve attached a fun little quiz to help further guide you.  It is not necessarily the gospel on your skin type but again gives some helpful indicators to look for.  Just remember to do periodic re-checks to make sure you and your skin are still on the same page.  


Write in with any questions- us, CyberDERM girls, will do our best.


Karina T.

The Best of the 'Others' 2011

November 30, 2011, 9:58 am

≫ Next: The Prevention versus Correction Dilemma: How Young is too Young?

≪ Previous: What's Your Skin Type?

$

0

0

 Us ladies at CyberDERM really do use our line of products and believe in them whole-heartedly. I call them my skin powerhouses because they deliver every single day. We also are pretty steadfast in our commitment to other great lines that we carry.  I vow that using Jane Iredale mineral bases has changed my perception of make-up forever.  Having said that, we are people too and can have a wandering eye when it comes to beauty products that we do not carry in the store.  Most of us are beauty ‘early adopters’ and like to give the latest and greatest a try.  I have personally tested vibrating mascara wands and UV nail polish for this very same blog.  

In light of a new year approaching and the holiday shopping season, Karina, our make-up artist, and myself decided to share some of our other favourites found in pharmacies, department stores or your local spa/salon.  Maybe they will inspire you to try something new or share with us things you have tried- either way.  Just don’t forget about the classics, the ones that will always be good to you and for you.

Best in Hair Care:

Sara: Kevin Murphy’s Forever Young (Treatment Oil)

 I was one of the first to jump on the Moroccan Hair Oil bandwagon.  I still think it is a great product but my hair stylist in Toronto used this silicone-based treatment on my hair damp and then as a finishing product.  He explained that with silicone there is good and then there is bad in terms of quality.  This is good and will not get gritty if used with a good hairspray.  It also smells like a dream- a natural type of spicy/woodsy that replaces perfume for me.

Karina: Mixed Chicks  (Shampoo, Conditioner, leave-in )

My daughter has the most beautiful cork screw curls. She also has lots of hair and as we know curly hair tends to be dryer.  I had tried everything from the most expensive to the most affordable- nothing worked: not  hydrating enough, too much hold, not enough hold, no frizz control etc..  Mixed chicks cleanses, hydrates and the leave-in holds the curl in place with no frizz and most importantly no crunch! It has a very fresh scent and gives soft luxurious movable curls.  If you have a slight wave, or ringlets or corkscrew curls-this is a great product. Enjoy!

Best in Eye Wear:

Sara: Nars Larger than Life Long Lasting Eyeliner

I love Nars for their amazing colours.  I can’t speak to the quality of their formulations but for times when you want pops of colour or something that reflects the trend of the season- Nars is great! I use a colour called Bourbon street, which is this neo-bright purple with a slight metallic highlight to it. It is perfect for green/hazel eyes when you are going for something a little bit more street.  I do have to give Jane Iredale praise for this season- they also have similar more trendy hues but they tend to be softer/prettier on application. 

Karina: L’ Oreal Telescopic (in gold tube)

I been using Lancome Definicils for over 20 years until a friend of mine introduced me to L’Oreal Telescopic. I’m in love! It separates, thickens and especially lengthens.  It gives the lashes an almost stiletto heel effect, i.e. a slight tapering towards the ends. It does take a little bit more attention to detail when applying- you cannot just swipe and go.  But the payoff is beautiful lashes at a fraction of the price and who doesn't like to save a bit of money.

Best in Pretty Pouts:

Sara: Bobbi Brown Creamy Lip Colour (Lipstick) and Crest 3D White Strips (Professional Effects)

I’m a cheater- I have two!  Bobbi Brown makes a pretty impressive lipstick.  My friend gave me one as a birthday gift and it had this great creamy texture that meant it did not kiss/wipe off immediately.  You can feel the shea butter in it for sure- having said that you need to have moisturized lips to apply it since the texture would emphasize chapped ones. My other recommendation is a little outside the beauty box- but nothing makes your lip colour shine better than white teeth.  I preferred these strips to my professional ones made by my dentist since I found they really clung to my teeth.  It took about ten packs before I saw a good difference but I was really happy.  Just make sure to pay attention to the instructions- stick with the 30 min. time frame.  You do get teeth sensitivity.  If you try and max out their potential by leaving them on for longer- a stiff wind will feel like the Titanic hitting an iceberg on your teeth.

Karina:  Lip Fusion Lip Plumpers

This is also cheating because we carry this line but I absolutely love the entire Lip Fusion line- from soft  subtle colors to a bold and in-your-face pout.  There is a slight tingling sensation when first applied but I don’t mind that at all.   It comes in clear to pair up with your favorite lip color.  It’s not too sticky or drying and it’s the perfect balance of gloss, color and plumping power.  A few of my favorite colors include Sugar, Angelic, Crave and Lollipop!

The Prevention versus Correction Dilemma: How Young is too Young?

December 15, 2011, 11:23 am

≫ Next: KENETIA LEE, celebrity make-up artist, talks about the Golden Globes and beauty in Hollywood

≪ Previous: The Best of the 'Others' 2011

$

0

0

I am lucky that my mother gets to be a mentor/skin care guru/ world famous physician all wrapped in one package (for those who do not know, Dr. Sharyn “First Lady of Lasers” is my mom- I’m very lucky and proud!).  ‘Mommisms’ are therefore also ‘doctorisms’ and I don’t just take them with a grain of salt- I actually follow them to the tee.   So when she says, “it is all maintenance after 40”, I don’t question it.  I do not think any woman who is 40+ would argue either. 

It gets a little fuzzy, however, when you consider what you should do before the age of 40.  We are all in agreement that toddlers in tiaras should refrain from getting Botox but how about a 25 year old?  That’s when it gets interesting.  I’m 28 and I just got my first Botox tx for frowning this year.  I didn’t really think twice about it and I’m fairly honest about it if asked.  I also know that some may disapprove (they may or may not be able to frown while doing it).  There is an emotional element to the debate but for this blog we are going to examine some of the practical considerations. 

First off, I thought I would attempt to calculate an ROI of prevention versus correction.In 2006, a physician did a study comparing two identical twins to see whether Botox had a preventative effect on wrinkles. It did, as you can see in the pictures below. 

 It’s a good case study since the twin on the right had had Botox for 13 years prior, starting in her mid-twenties, and the twin on the left did basically nothing.  So we have two twins at the 40-year-old milestone and we can fairly assess the costs and the benefits of preventative versus corrective measures.  I then presented the pictures of each twin separately to nurses who give cosmetic consults and asked them to set out a possible treatment plan with associated costs. 

Treatment plan for the Correction Twin (Twin on the Left):

1st. Good skin care: for the mornings use zinc oxide sunscreen, AM Hydrating Whip $38, evening to alternate retinoic acid, Differin 0.1% (by prescription) with antioxidant night cream, Cyberderm PM  Anti-Age $125

 2^nd. Botox: to open eyes and lift eyebrows 37 units @ $12/unit

 3^rd. Photofacials 1-3 treatments done 1 month apart $350/tx to even out skin tones- red and browns.

Total associated cost with Correction: $1657 for this series of treatments

Treatment plan for the Prevention Twin (Twin on the Right):

1^st. Good skin care: use AM Hydrating Whip $38, evening to alternate Differin 0.1% (by prescription) with Cyberderm PM Anti-Age $125

2. Continued use of Botox at roughly 37 units @ $12/unit

Total cost of Prevention: $607 for this series of treatment

Of course, you then have to add the cost of 13 years of Botox treatments to the Prevention Twin’s total costs to give an accurate assessment.  When calculated at roughly $444 for every 3-4 months for 13 years, you get an additional cost of a number that is too terrifying to actual put in print.  Really, I deleted the actual number after having written it since some numbers are better in abstraction- like your shoe budget. 

Needless to say, the cost analysis wins out in the favour of correction.  My mom also assured me that with the state of technology in dermatology you can correct most issues to the same baseline as prevention.  In other words, the Correction twin could look as good as her Prevention sister after about a year of jabs, zaps and yikes’.  Again, correction seems to be winning.

However, just to sway the argument in favour of prevention a little, there are some additional factors to consider.  One is the pain factor.  For however much beauty you need to regain, you can increase the pain factor as well as the amount of downtime involved.  It’s the equivalent of going to the gym regularly over a lifetime versus having to go on the Biggest Loser and having Jillian Michaels yell in your face.  There is also the psychological boon of not being defined by your facial lines- imagine the difference in your quality of life if for 13 years you did not have people asking you whether you’re tired or sick or worried (when you actually had 10 hours sleep the night before and you are having a great day).  Some feel as though their wrinkles were hard earned.  Other’s feel as though they want to tell a different life story and do not want their wrinkles to do the talking.  It is a personal choice. 

So to end, I thought I would pass on some mommism’s that are applicable to everyone no matter how you feel about the prevention/correction debate:

1.     Good skin care is great at any age- no one is going to give you a hard time about applying your sunscreen.

2.     If you are going to seek some more intensive cosmetic intervention, find a doctor who has a mother’s love for your face.  In other words, you do not want someone who is going to re-mould you into their idea of beauty.  You want someone who can see past the long nights and moments of worry but sees the real you.

3.     Stick by your choices and let other’s have room to make their own. 

  Greetings in the New Year! 

SSara

KENETIA LEE, celebrity make-up artist, talks about the Golden Globes and beauty in Hollywood

February 1, 2012, 5:58 am

≫ Next: The Best Advice We Never Take.

≪ Previous: The Prevention versus Correction Dilemma: How Young is too Young?

$

0

0

We were so lucky this month that Kenetia Lee, a celebrity make-up artist who was backstage at this year’s Golden Globes, sat down with Karina for a quick chat.  They are old friends from Karina’s days in Hollywood and she shared some absolutely crazy stories!  Thanks Kenetia!

Some facts about Kenetia:

Born in: Chicago, Illinois

Lives: NYC/LA

Profession:  Red Carpet Celebrity makeup artist/ beauty activist

Website:  www.kenetia.com

Uses all types of makeup – some of her favorites:

o   Jane Iredale professional palette.

o   Stila gel cheek color

o   Make Up For Ever base colors

Karina: What are some of the make-up trends for this season and what are you seeing in colours and fashion?

Kenetia: More actresses are now 40+.  Tips: Do not bring attention to lower eye instead try for more emphasis with liner on upper lid and fuller lashes. Choose softer colors for cheeks and lips. People are going for a more natural look  … less is more! Especially as we age.

Karina: What do you think was the best style moment at the Golden Globes?

Kenetia: I’m torn – 2 people stood out: Angelina Jolie was statuesque and Jane Fonda stunning. I loved Jane’s black sheer lace gown.

Karina: Tell us your craziest moment you have had in Hollywood.

Kenetia: I don’t want to mention any names for obvious reasons.  I once had to apply makeup on a singer preparing for an interview who was trying to recover from the previous night festivities. She was not feeling very well so I ended up applying her makeup while the singer was lying on the floor.  A moment I will not soon forget!!

Karina: Overall most memorable moment at the Golden Globes…

Kenetia: After Morgan Freeman had won the Cecil B. Demille Lifetime Achievement Award, we ran into each other while he was walking back stage for his interview. He just stared in my eyes and said to me, "you give beautiful face." Then moved in to rub noses with me. A special moment.”

Karina: Nicest celebrity you have met in Hollywood…

Kenetia: There are a few that stand out such as Octavia Spencer (The Help), Jennifer Hudson (American Idol, Sex and the City), and Mariah Carey who was a makeup artist before becoming a singer.  Also Lucy Liu (Ally McBeal, Charlie’s Angels) -who always has beautifully applied makeup. They were all wonderful.

Karina: What is the biggest skincare/make-up concern for celebrities?

Kenetia: Flawless skin – they obsess about it!

Karina: Tell us the most common make-up mistake you see people make.

Kenetia: People try to follow trends instead of doing what is best for them. They want to use trendy colors that are not necessarily good for their skin tone.  My advice is to always go with what looks best for you and to accentuate your best features. That is what make-up is supposed to do!

Karina: what are people in LA doing in terms of being tanned versus protecting their skin?

Kenetia: I’ve seen a lot of people that are looking “crunchy” with an orange color that looks over-baked. I think people are using self -tanners that are leaving their skin with an orange tint. St-Tropez is a great line of self-tanners that doesn’t leave your skin orange.

Karina: What are some tips for being photo-ready on big nights out?

Kenetia: Celebrities obviously have their own personal make-up artists at hand and ready for events and parties.  Make sure to prep the skin – get facials/peels to make sure that your skin is healthy and properly hydrated. Your natural glow will show up through the makeup! Also, it is important to ensure that your foundation is properly matched to your skin tone. Get your colors checked every now and then as your skin tone does change over the years.

Karina: Final tips and words of advice?

Kenetia: I just want to re-iterate that it is important to go with what works with your tone and features. If you have good cheekbones then accentuate them! For the women 40 and over make sure that your eye makeup lifts the eyes. Never apply liner to the lower lid and [good] brows are essential for framing the face. You need to ensure your brows are always properly sculpted by a professional.

Again- big thanks to Kenetia and Karina for their words of wisdom.  Celebrities keep things interesting- don’t they?

Best,

Sara

  

---

The Best Advice We Never Take.

March 1, 2012, 6:00 am

≫ Next: Flying with Rare Derms: Notes and Thoughts from the American Academy of Dermatology Meeting in San Diego

≪ Previous: KENETIA LEE, celebrity make-up artist, talks about the Golden Globes and beauty in Hollywood

$

0

0

If you ever have the day to spend at home and get to watch any daytime TV, you’ll notice that you can get expert advice on every aspect of your life.  From the View to Andersen, you’ll learn the best food to cook from the best way to wear hot pink lipstick.  God forbid that you also watch Dr. Oz because then you’ll probably end up with at least five of the hottest supplements attempting to burn belly fat while curing your arthritis.  As someone who gives a lot of advice (don’t ever ask me about sunscreen at a cocktail party, I’ll be obnoxious), I’ve realized how much advice we receive nowadays.  With Facebook, Pinterest, and Youtube, a lot of that advice may come from your friends and can actually be fairly helpful.  I thought this month, I would share the best advice that I have ever given and then failed to actually follow myself.    Mom always used to say “do as I say, not as I do”, which really is the most frustrating of statements but we are all a little culpable of it.  Here are some of my best tips with absolutely no lessons learned about how I failed to follow them.

  Less Chemicals. More Efficacy. Please

Anyone who has been following the evolution of CyberDERM as a company may remember our original tag line.  We’re transitioning to “the sunscreen company”, since pat-on-the back, we will be launching our two Health Canada approved sunscreens this summer (and they are pretty amazing!).  Our original tag-line was not very sexy, potentially not grammatically correct and as my sister said, the please sounded snotty.  It’s still a principal that we try to stand by though and it’s a great litmus test for cleaning out our cosmetic cabinet.  Anything over 30 chemicals should go.  I’ll never be tempted by a freebie Christian Dior moisturizer even if it originally costs $300+.   I just don’t see the need for the dash-of-this, dash-of-that chemical load.  I get into trouble though with new and exciting product categories. 

I fell victim to the shellac nail polish where you have to soak your nails in acetone for 10 minutes before you remove it.  I braved the vibrating mascara.  My worst adventure though was with those 7 day blow-out treatments that came out over a year ago.  Anyone else try those?  Anyone still trying those?  I remember sitting in my bathroom with this goop dripping down my neck, burning my scalp where I have eczema.  It smelled like the old-school perm chemicals with that strong ammonia smell.  My hair did not even look that much better and this was something I was meant to repeat once a week.  I bought a better hair brush and problem solved!

 Products gone bad.

Why don’t mascara companies make their tubes smaller if you are meant to throw them out after 6 months?  They always feel like bottom-less wells and I’ve never actually finished one before.  I’ve always tried to squeeze another month or so out of my products because it seems like such a waste to throw out something that is half full and still seems ok.  Mind you I’ve also had a wicked eye infection that taught me my lesson.  I know think of it as a mandatory treat to replace my products as they expire.  I use it as an excuse to try new things or seasonal trends.  I almost relapsed with my pretty Stila lip and eye cream blush in Peony, then realized it was two years old, threw it out and did not look at it sitting in the garbage. 

Vanity Insanity

I’ve been using my Latisse now for over 4 months and I have to say I love it!  I used to think why would anyone take the time every night to apply this to their eyelashes.  Do eyelashes really make that big a difference to how you look?  They absolutely do.  My boyfriend now accuses me of ‘dinking’ at him.  To ‘dink’ means to bat your eyelashes when you want something.  You can rapid-fire dink in case of emergency. I don’t think that I actually do that but I’ll now curl them and lovingly apply multiple coats of mascara.  I’m currently using L’Oreal’s Telescopic mascara as per Karina’s recommendation.  It’s wonderful.  Except now, I’m slightly tempted to visit what is called ‘lash bars’.  They are sort of like those blow-out bars.  Just the word ‘bar’ associated with some form of pampering sounds like a great mix.  I’m not actually sure how these longer lasting falsies are applied.  I know they last about a month and potentially give you a Kim Kardashian type look.  It’s at this point where sanity returns and you stop yourself.  Do I really want to risk my eyes for this?  It’s so over the top and unnecessary that sometimes idle curiosity just needs to be shutdown and told to behave itself.  Unless anyone reading this is curious about these lash bars, in which case it would be in the name of research and not vanity.  I’m dinking as I write.

Well that’s it for now.  I’m not ending with any resounding moral.  I think sometimes we are good at being good and sometimes we are just bad.

All the best,

Sara

Flying with Rare Derms: Notes and Thoughts from the American Academy of Dermatology Meeting in San Diego

April 1, 2012, 8:32 am

≫ Next: The Pop Science of Wrinkles

≪ Previous: The Best Advice We Never Take.

$

0

0

If you have ever tried to see a Derm in their natural habitat, you know how difficult a feat that can be.  Dermatologists can have a six month waiting list for an appointment.  You may need a referral letter.  When you do get your appointment, you may only get 20 minutes to barrel through your list of concerns. Derms are exotic creatures indeed.  That is why travelling from Toronto to San Diego on an Air Canada flight, it was a rare sighting to see the mass migration of so many Canadian Derms heading to their annual dermatology meeting.  It was a reunion of sorts with people waving hello, stopping for a chat and yes, talking about skin.  I overheard one doctor laughing with a colleague that he tells his patients, “well it’s your face and you only have one of them”.  I can imagine if the rest of the patrons on the plane only knew that they were encircled by Derms.   You would have had a lot more people turning to their fellow passengers asking them, “Do you think this mole looks funny?”

Our Friends at Jane Iredale in San Diego

The annual American Academy of Dermatology is the worlds largest meeting for Derms and their staff.  This year roughly 10,000 people were registered.  The topics discussed are not always the sexiest, at least not to a lay person, but the Exhibition Hall is absolutely epic.  There is no doubt that Derms are considered an influential group of people.  How many of us have bought a product because it said “dermatologist approved”? Companies put on quite the show with baristas making flavoured latte’s, juice bars, smoothie bars, waffle-makers dishing up fresh waffles.  Dove had a barber there! Booths were larger than my apartment and potentially better decorated.  This picture was taken with our lovely friends at Jane Iredale, who had a pretty yet relatively demure presence. 

I was in San Diego not just for the free waffles or to super-sleuth on dermatologists but to attend the Photomedicine Society’s annual meeting, which occurs the day before.  At this meeting, dermatologists, researchers and industry meet to talk about the latest and greatest in photo-related therapies, which includes sunscreens.  I have to report from the front lines that sunscreens are a hot topic!  I had no idea that they were argued about so passionately.  Some might say vehemently.  There are definitely two camps forming when it comes to sunscreens.  At CyberDERM, we’ve pitched our tent with the zinc oxide group.  Big companies like Johnson and Johnson have not been immune to our camp’s little nips at their heels though.  There was some heat in their arguments for sure!

What is clear from the meeting is that those who are meant to be the thought leaders in this industry have not come to any decisions yet about anything.  Everything about sunscreens is being debated: from their formulas, the way they are tested, their ability to mitigate skin cancer, the way they should be used by the general population, what legislation should mandate.  Debate is important but it does not help consumers at the shelf level trying to make the best decision for themselves and their families. 

So what are consumers to do in the interim?  I think they have to gather the most information they can from as many sources and then make the best, most reasonable decision they can.  It’s a gargantuan task.  Here are some of my best take-aways to help:

•            Use other means of sun-protection.  This may come as an odd thing to say from a sunscreen manufacturer but what is clear is that it is human nature to not apply enough sunscreen.  In other words, SPF tests are based on applying an amount of sunscreen that most of us do not use in real life.  I’m even guilty of this!  My friend once had a sunburn in the shape of my hand because I’m not great at applying sunscreen.  It makes sense then to use a back-up if you are going to be out for prolonged amounts of time.  I love a big hat with big sunglasses and they are back in style.  Sun protective clothing is a great option and actually stands up well to repeated washings.  Look for clothing with an actual UPF associated with it or as one Derm put it,  “no one has ever burnt through their blue jeans”.
•            Use on-line resources.  I’ve always said that the Environmental Working Group provides a service to consumers.  They make it very easy to type in their sunscreen by brand and see the level of protection they are getting.  They do to tend to be hyper-reactive to potential dangers. But in a world where industry dominates and tends to down-play, they need to pack a little bit of force behind their punch to counter-react.  
•             Use your best judgment and then relax.  I am a firm believer that when you know better, you do better.  It always pays to read as much as you can.  Unfortunately, there can be a lot of fear mongering or anxiety involved with making the wrong decision.  No one wants skin cancer but if you practice sun vigilance and good common sense, take pride in that and then evolve your habits as you learn more. 
• 
  

Best of luck and write with any questions!

Sara Dudley

The Pop Science of Wrinkles

May 1, 2012, 5:18 am

≫ Next: Article 6

≪ Previous: Flying with Rare Derms: Notes and Thoughts from the American Academy of Dermatology Meeting in San Diego

$

0

0

I’m in no way a scientist but having grown up surrounded by doctors and having a little sister who is researching a cure for brain cancer (true story and I’m so proud!)- a fair amount of technical talk is discussed at the kitchen table.   Having said that, does anyone else ever wonder how we are meant to connect all the talk of mysterious free radicals, and anti-oxidants to the signs of aging that we actually see in the mirror.  I mean really- how do those pesky little free radicals kicking around my cells give me a wrinkle? I was really happy then when I found this article that played connect the dots for me.  

So for those who would like to ‘geek’ out with me- I’m going to attempt to explain how the signs below are related to the physiological processes that age us that we often hear about.  I promise to make it the Cliff Notes version and as easy to understand as possible.

Sign of Aging	Intrinsic Processes of Aging
Wrinkles/ Laxity of Skin	Free Radicals and Anti-oxidation
Dry, rough and dull	Cell Senescence
Discolouration	Genes and Mutations
Thinning of Skin

Free Radicals

Image of a Free Radical through an Electron Microscope

I don’t know how many of you remember high school chemistry but think back to molecules with electrons circling protons. Now imagine this molecule is actually oxygen and some incident occurs that makes one of the electrons go rogue or invites an unwelcome electron to join their group.  This oxygen molecule becomes like a roving gang, searching for its missing member, or trying to get rid of its new buddy.  Either way, it starts attacking and damaging innocent bystanders (i.e. our other cells) that it comes into contact.  Those cells could be our own DNA molecules or essential proteins or lipids in the different layers of skin. Our cells are used to generating a certain amount of free radicals naturally and we have certain mechanisms internally for neutralizing them.  As we age or are exposed to sun and pollution, we can start creating too many free radicals for our bodies to handle.  This over production can either tell the cell to hibernate or tell it to commit cellular suicide (for lack of a better word).  Now imagine that suicidal cell was one that made up your collagen or elastin fibers.  Those fibers are like the springs in a mattress.  Old creaky springs that are slowly disintegrating make for a lumpy mattress.  Now imagine that all of those horribly mixed metaphors are happening to your face and you’ll start eating your fruits and veggies and putting on your sunscreen every day.

Cell senescence

This is another tricky concept so bear with me.   Picture your DNA as a stick of dynamite.  Our DNA tells our cells a host of things to do, including when to begin the process of splitting into another cell (the process of mitosis).  Now picture this stick of dynamite has a long fuse attached to it.  That long fuse is what we would call your telomeres.  They are these little caps on the ends of your DNA and that just like a fuse on dynamite begin to shorten down.  As time elapses, that fuse is depleted to nothing and then BOOM! Your cell, or that stick of dynamite, explodes.  Well it does not actually explode (you can imagine that would be messy) but it certainly commits that cellular suicide we mentioned.  Those cells again can be important elastin and collagen fibers, which we need for pinch-able skin.  The trick is to find ways to keep those telomeres from shortening and increasing the life span of our skin cells.  We know that women typically have longer telomeres than men (i.e. which could explain our longer life spans) and that stress can actually increase the rate of telomere shortening.  All of which indicates there are things that we can do to keep our ticking time bombs ticking a little bit longer.  If you are interested or perhaps have a kid in need of a science project, check out this video that does a far better job explaining:  - http://www.wehi.edu.au/education/wehitv/apoptosis_and_signal_transduction/     

Genes and Mutations

The whole science of our genes and mutations is still evolving so there are lots of unknowns in this field.  Basically, genes in aging cells that deal with cellular death may start getting a little bit more boisterous at the proverbial party.  Meanwhile, the genes that regulate good things like growth or collagen synthesis or that regulate important enzymes might start to become shrinking violets.  Mutations can potentially occur through damaging UV light or free radicals that tell portions of our DNA to improperly replicate or create odd breaks in the strands.  Chaos and a host of other bad things start to happen and the party gets shutdown by the cops before things get exciting.  I don’t know what the cops are in this metaphor or what can be considered exciting but you get the idea.

Ooph…science is tiring.  All in all, these are not easy concepts to wrap your mind around.  I suppose it is good enough to understand that in general we want to stem the tide of these processes of aging and not necessarily for vanity purposes.   The recipe of prevention is pretty much what has become common sense of a health lifestyle lexicon.  Easy enough to know, not always easy to do. In any case, I may have to retire my scientific visualizations- I’ll leave them to the ‘geeks’ of the world and stick to beauty.

All the best,

Sara

Article 6

June 1, 2012, 5:00 am

≫ Next: Which Sun Whip is right for you?

≪ Previous: The Pop Science of Wrinkles

$

0

0

Mindful Awareness: the Beauty and Food Connection

I’m a bit behind the times in that I just downloaded the movie Food Inc.  off of my Netflix.  If you have not seen it, it’s a pretty raw look at the food industry and how we source what we eat.  I have to admit to being a bit skeptical about the whole organic food movement and the 100-mile diet.  I always think back to when I studied in Tuscany and the way I cooked there: i.e. if you prepare your own food from fresh ingredients and you make it with love, what else do you need? I see the multitude of flaws in that logic now and in watching a movie like Food Inc., I get the value of being vigilant about what you consume.  It’s a complex issue and the documentary format is pretty adept at teasing out the important threads and leaving you with enough social angst to make an impression.

The Beauty and Food Connection

As someone who runs a beauty company, it’s pretty easy then to draw a connection about what we eat versus what we apply to our bodies.  It’s odd that I have been so mindful about we put in cosmetic products but I hadn’t adopted it into an entire lifestyle approach.  In fact, I think part of me pushed against it during the whole green-washing period of the past few years.  It’s hard to have the message pushed on to you by some external company that is going to profit from it (I see the irony in writing this from a company blog, trust me).  I prefer to come to any kind of awareness on my own terms and through my own process of discovery- it’s part and parcel of my millennial generation I guess.  Having said that, I thought it worthwhile to draw some parallels between being mindfully aware of what goes into food vs. cosmetics and come up with some basic principles.  Basically, I love anything that you can put in a bullet point.

Bullet 1: Don’t be perfect.

People sometimes mistake m ability to see shades of grey as being wishy-washy.  I just don’t personally like dogma.  I think you have to do your best to be conscientious but all or nothing principles just leave a lot of room for judgment.  Life is a process of evolution.  I think both companies and consumers should be allowed to evolve as you learn things.  If you are ready for another Oprah precept, when you know better, you do better but do not point fingers in the meantime.  Unless you are a company that intentionally and knowingly does harm, in which case my finger is pointed directly at you and it’s going to start jabbing.

Bullet 2: Dispassionate Realism

When I saw the way chickens and cows are killed, trust me, I got a little bit emotional.  Having said that, sometimes it pays to step back from anger and fear and then go about doing some of your own research.  For example in the beauty industry, there is a lot of hot debate about ingredients like parabens.  Some in the medical community or in the industry still stand by them.  In truth, the science about parabens is not definitive yet one way or the other so then I turn to my dispassionate weighing of pros versus cons.  In my mind, there is some potential for worry because there is a level of doubt about them.  I then consider is it a risk that I have to be willing to take.  Are there consequences with trying to do without them?  Not really.  There are alternatives that you can use to properly protect your products against ‘getting buggy’ that do not have any issues.  Case closed- no parabens for me, thank-you, but I came to it in a reasonable and objective way.

Our Home Garden: takes the mystery out of where your food comes from

 Bullet 3: Bring some humanity back.

This goes back to my statement about not having faith in the brand messaging of those ‘green’ types of companies.  It’s not to say that a corporate conglomerate like Walmart can’t make impactful social change.  They absolutely can and to a large extent they can make the biggest changes!  It’s still easier to trust companies though that seem to have people behind them.  People that have real voices and personalities.  We are pretty good as people at gaging whether something seems real to us. To that end, find the people behind companies and ask them questions!  What are their principles?  How credible are they?

I think if you keep to these types of principles, living a mind-ful type of lifestyle becomes more accessible for everyone.  It’s not something that is just trendy or for an elite few.  It does not always fit so nicely into a perfect Facebook update but it becomes something real that can improve you and your family’s life.  

All the best,

Sara

Which Sun Whip is right for you?

July 2, 2012, 3:57 pm

≫ Next: What You Can and Can’t Do Beauty-Wise in the Summer Months?

≪ Previous: Article 6

$

0

0

With our two sunscreens about to imminently launch, you may be wondering what’s the difference and which one is right for you?   Both are fair questions and for those of you who cannot try both Sun Whips before you buy, here are some tips for choosing the best product!

How would you describe your skin type:

The New Simply Zinc Sun Whip

If you would describe your skin as:

Normal to combination: Every Morning. Sun Whip.   The Every Morning Sun Whip is a great choice with its cashmere matte finish and light application.  It’s great for applying every day, before your make-up with minimal shine.

Dry/Sensitive or mature:  Simply Zinc Sun Whip.  The Simply Zinc Sun Whip is ultra-calming and hydrating with its extract of olive oil.  Its 22% zinc oxide formula is richer than its Every Morning counter-part but still applies invisibly and without shine. It has peptides to help repair your collagen and elastin fibers in your skin and therefore is a true anti-aging tool!

Ethnic, darker skin:  Every Morning Sun Whip.  People with darker skin types sometimes think they can get away without wearing daily sun protection.  Don’t be fooled!  Darker skin types are still susceptible to certain forms of melanoma, can suffer from melasma and can have aging concerns like uneven pigmentation.  It pays to protect which is why spokespeople like Gabrielle Union has come out to talk about using sunscreen on a daily basis.  Our Every Morning formula still applies transparently to darker skin tones with no worry of casting a whitish tint!

Do you have:

Acne:  Every Morning Sun Whip. Although people with acne worry about using anything to rich on their skin, they still need sunscreen daily.  Zinc is a natural anti-inflammatory which will help calm irritated skin but this lighter formula will provide just the right amount of hydration without clogging pores.  It also will not leave you with an oily finish, which no one wants!

Melasma or hyper-pigmentation:  Simply Zinc Sun Whip.  Anyone who suffers from melasma or hyper-pigmentation knows that you have to be absolutely sun vigilant.  If you have also ever been diagnosed with any form of skin disorder like actinic keratosis or melanoma, you also know that you cannot afford to take sun protection for granted.  You need strong, consistent photo-stable protection and the 22% zinc in this formula gives just that- consistent, long wave UVA and UVB protection!

Are you:

Pregnant, breast-feeding or thinking of becoming pregnant: Simply Zinc Sun Whip.  Anyone that has been pregnant before knows that it is of great importance to consider how what you apply to your skin affects your infants’s health in the womb.  There is some worry over other chemical filters like avobenzone and oxybenzone in sunscreens being absorbed into your body.  It is unclear about their effect once in the body but certainly it is not a risk worth taking on your unborn child’s health.  The thinking would be then that if your sunscreen is safe enough to use when you’re pregnant, it’s safe enough to use for the rest of your life. Remember that we all still apply zinc to our baby’s behinds because of its healing properties! Our resident mom’s who work at CyberDERM also love the Simply Zinc to use on their children as they grow up.  They love to maintain natural and holistic lifestyles and Simply Zinc fits in it!

This is a somewhat reductive guide because in the end your choice may just be a matter of which one feels right on your skin.  We hope you find one that you love either way and stay protected all day, every day.

All the best,

Sara